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WorldWorks Games Paper Models
Posted: 29 September 2008 02:16 PM   [ Ignore ]  
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I just received many of the Worldworks Games paper models as a gift. I have both interior and exterior models (building, terrain, hallways, etc.).

I am interested in using these solely for D&D alongside my miniatures, glass table top (on top of a 1” grid rollout mat). Basically, I am thinking that I will be utilizing most everything. I don’t really see using the floor sections, unless it is a rare instance (wells, grates, etc.).

I purchased a ream of card stock, a metal ruler with cork underside and a glue pen. I also have a ton of cardboard (free from the Post Office). I currently have an HP c4180 printer.

What I am wondering is:

Which wall sections are the most useful (each set seems to not only be visually different, but also physically put together differently)? Do you recommend walls or drawing them with dry/wet erase markers?

Recommendations on my supplies/building techniques/etc?

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Posted: 29 September 2008 03:54 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 1 ]  
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I think walls would get in the way visually and when moving minis and tokens, and not really be worth the trouble.
I prefer a clear playing field without too many distractions. The 3D terrain stuff is not really filling any need in my table.

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Posted: 29 September 2008 03:58 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 2 ]  
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The thing that convinced me was the idea of stairs, table, etc. that the minis could stand on.

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Posted: 30 September 2008 04:05 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 3 ]  
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You really need to talk to Andorax about this as he does a ton of stuff with them so he would probably have some inside info on what people seem to get the most use out of.

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Posted: 30 September 2008 08:52 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 4 ]  
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It would help if I had a full breakdown of which sets you have. 

Having both InteriorWorks sets helps...they’re VERY flexible.  I’d personally recommend printing out a fair number of regular stone tiles sufficient to cover a sheet of foamcore to create your “masterboard”, and then just utilize an assortment of wall sections...some large, some small...and use the recommended “clip-it” system.  It works really well for creating on-the-fly rooms and corridors using the WWG materials.

While I find the 3” walls of the modern sets to be a pain sometimes, the 2” walls are rarely a problem, and don’t get in the way at all.  What they (and particular a good assortment of props) DO do is create a very visible, interactive environment.  You can mention a chair in the description, describe it on the whiteboard, but I’ve found that players are far more apt to interact with their environment if it’s physically THERE...if a player can SEE the cardstock crate in the corner, the character is much more likely to pick up a crate and hurl it at a foe.

As a general rule, though, I find that it’s far easier to adapt settings to the card, instead of trying to make the card strictly adhere to the layout of the setting.  You can do it...you can make the rooms, corridors, etc. exactly the way they appear on the map...but it’s not always worth the additional effort.  Sometimes, it’s better to find a compromise between the two and focus on just the tactically-critical layouts being exactly as-is.

For an example, many D&D modules depict round towers.  If the octagonal tower from CastleWorks Ultimate is about the right size, I’d just stick with the octagonal tower instead of trying to recreate the round tower.

As mentioned...if you can get me a list of the other sets you have, I’d love to take a look.

And if you’re interested...WWG also has a few 3E modules on their shelves, with all the foes represented as standees, added models, and extended support for the sets designed to make use of them (including two written my yours truly).

[ Edited: 30 September 2008 10:43 AM by Andorax]
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Posted: 30 September 2008 12:29 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 5 ]  
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So not really that helpful here rasberry but I can definitely see what Andorax is talking about.  Maybe even if you just draw the walls in, or make them pretty small so that they don’t get in the way, it would really help you visual using the environment when you play if you had actual props placed that you could put tokens and miniatures on.  Even if you see it drawn or hear/read the description, you just notice it more if it is 3-D and out there like it is a part of the game and not just a piece of scenery.

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Posted: 30 September 2008 02:12 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 6 ]  
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I have Castles and Keeps, Dungeonworks, Villageworks, and Pubs and Inns. I think I might have Castleworks too. Thank you for the post Andorax. I think that my biggest concern with the walls is when using 10ft wide corridors. I might just make my maps with that in mind and use 15’ or 20’ corridors where fight might spill out to.

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Posted: 30 September 2008 03:07 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 7 ]  
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DungeonWorks has “floating walls” that can be used to do layouts, but in all honesty, it’s hard to do much with it since it is one of our earliest sets.  Gothic Realms, and even InteriorWorks: Castles & Keeps, are more useful for ‘fit to design’ layouts.

VillageWorks’ use is fairly obvious...design a good masterboard layout and add buildings to it.  There’s some tips on the WorldWorks board for “faking” interiors for VillageWorks as well...particularly since you ahve Pubs & Inns.

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Posted: 30 September 2008 06:49 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 8 ]  
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I am not worried about “fit to design” as I have no problem with creating my own layouts using the pieces I create (as opposed to creating pieces to fit a map I use). I am much more worried about function (meaning in-game interaction) of the walls. You said that the 2” pieces have given you little trouble. Do you think that wider hallways could help?

As for the interiors of the VillageWorks pieces...that is most likely the first thing I will do after the test run dungeon room I will be creating.

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Posted: 01 October 2008 05:07 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 9 ]  
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Talae - 30 September 2008 06:49 PM

I am not worried about “fit to design” as I have no problem with creating my own layouts using the pieces I create (as opposed to creating pieces to fit a map I use). I am much more worried about function (meaning in-game interaction) of the walls. You said that the 2” pieces have given you little trouble. Do you think that wider hallways could help?

As for the interiors of the VillageWorks pieces...that is most likely the first thing I will do after the test run dungeon room I will be creating.

I’ve never found the “narrow” hallways to be a problem in-game.  It may be because I game on a low table, but it seems to work just fine for how we run our games.

Unless you’re planning on springing a “big surprise” on your group, you might try a test run and see how they react to it...just put four corridors leading into a central room and see how it physically plays out.

Two links back to WWG for you that may prove handy:

1) Step by Step tips and instructions for doing VIllageWorks interiors:

http://www.worldworksgames.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4018

2) A kitbash I submitted way back when to provide quick, easy corners for DungeonWorks (I hardly ever mention it, since it’s one of our oldest sets):

http://www.worldworksgames.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29&products_id=50

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Posted: 01 October 2008 06:23 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 10 ]  
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I have a feeling that $1 kitbash sets will be the end of me. I may start with the “clip it” method and then eventually get the corner pieces you mentioned. I am definitely going to test this out this weekend.

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Posted: 01 October 2008 07:59 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 11 ]  
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During a session, which do you do:

-Add pieces as the players discover them
-Place the entire floor and allow the players to see prior to exploration
-place the entire floor, but cover up the undiscovered somehow

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Posted: 02 October 2008 06:42 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 12 ]  
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My two cents having build tons of stuff from world works:

1) Plan on LOTS of storage space.  The models are large and can consume tons of shelving and many pieces don’t stack well.

2) Prepare to spend countless hours making models.  It is the one thing that prevents me from using them all the time.  I just can’t spend the days upon days building them.  If you have time, some good tunes, and 2 or 3 buddies you can talk and build for hours.  At some point though, you just want to stab your eyes out and do something else.  It’s tedious.

3) It can take time to setup and can disrupt the game unless it’s setup in advance (which doesn’t always work depending on where the adventure is at).

Those things said, they are really awesome to use at the table and really lend a visual experience not possible otherwise.

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Posted: 02 October 2008 07:23 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 13 ]  
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Thanks for the comments Jim. I am a little worried about storage, but am thinking that I will get a bookshelf for them to go next to my minis bookshelf. As for creation time, I don’t really have a ton, but we will see what I can get made. I find the creation process pretty relaxing so far.

Here is my first picture. It is of a hodge-podge of models, but I haven’t decided what to build first, so I tried a few things. I will post more when I get some more created. (The second pic is blurry, sorry...took the pics with my phone.)
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Again, I will post more/better pics when I’ve got more built.

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Posted: 02 October 2008 07:34 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 14 ]  
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Looks really good to me grin

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Posted: 02 October 2008 07:36 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 15 ]  
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I built a few more walls last night, but don’t have any paper clips (hence the walls not being connected in the above images. I also have all 4 chairs for that table...next will be some more hallways and some doors.

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